Temple in the Sky, Taiyoji Temple

The temple is tucked away in a forest deep in the mountains of Chichibu, and was founded in the late Kamakura period (1192-1333) by Buddhist monk Bukkokuji. Because of its location at the top of the mountain, it is also called “Machu Picchu of Japan.

The shukubo (lodging house) experience staying at Taiyangji Temple is well known as an enjoyable experience for first-timers, and attracts many visitors from overseas as well as Japanese.

There are no strict ascetic practices here. Time spent slowly in the great outdoors will heal you from the busy life you have become accustomed to.

Taiyang Temple has a history of more than 700 years. Butsugokushi was a prince of Emperor Gosaga and traveled around the country in search of a place to practice asceticism. Following the guidance of Dharma birds, he arrived here and built the temple.

He was known as the “Bearded Monk” because he never went down to the village and grew a beard.

Because of the appearance of Butsugu Kokushi during his ascetic training, a legend spread that “tengu” (heavenly goblins) reside in the area. In the Edo period (1603-1867), mountain worship was on the rise, and the secluded “tengu-dwelling” Taiyangji Temple was revered as a holy place, leading to the temple’s prosperity.

The front path of Taiyangji’s mountain road, said to have been built in the Edo period, is green and moss-covered with stone statues of the thirteen buddhas (jusan-butsu). There are also rows of choishi, stones that indicate the distance to the temple.

Known in the past as Koyasan for women in the eastern part of Japan, the temple is one of the 13 sacred sites of the Chichibu Jusanbutsu Sacred Sites. During the Edo period (1603-1868), most mountain temples and shrines were closed to women, but Taiyo-ji Temple was one of the few temples and shrines where women were allowed to worship and attracted many visitors.

Shukubo (lodging houses) are also open, and visitors can experience sutra copying and zazen meditation, making it a popular destination.

Once you step into the temple grounds, a sense of tranquility pervades the air. What you hear are sounds that you would not normally hear, such as leaves swaying in the wind and birds chirping.

As you take a deep breath, the refreshing scent of the forest spreads through your body, and you feel a sense of relief. There is a comfortable freedom here that allows you to spend time at your own pace.

From spring through fall, there is a Shukubo plan that includes breakfast and dinner, and visitors can freely participate in zazen, sutra copying, and other activities.

The veranda of the main hall is long and expansive, with sunlight streaming in. This is the perfect place to do sutra chanting. As you trace the sutra one letter at a time with a brush pen, your mind will become clearer.

There is also an open-air bath where you can fully enjoy nature. This open-air bath allows you to have the spectacular view all to yourself. Amazingly, it was handmade by the priest himself. At night, you can also gaze at the starlit sky.

Another attraction of Taiyo-ji Temple is its delicious meals. The meals are vegetarian, and are prepared using only vegetables, with no meat or fish. The healthy and nutritious dishes are balanced, and the flavor of the vegetables will spread in your mouth. The menu offers a sense of the seasons, and is prepared by the head priest himself.

Kenchin Jiru” is served for breakfast, a hearty dish with tofu, carrots, and radish in a dashi broth made from shiitake mushrooms. On sunny days, breakfast can be enjoyed on the porch.

Zazen, taking advantage of the temple’s location, is also recommended. You can experience zazen in a special seat or in the hallway. From the corridor, a magnificent panoramic view of nature unfolds. You can spend a pleasant morning while enjoying the feeling of being part of nature.

Recently, many people visit not only on weekends but also on weekdays, and the number of repeat visitors is increasing.

Perhaps it is the comfort of being able to spend time in a natural setting that makes people want to keep coming, not only because they can enjoy the different atmosphere from season to season, but also because they are drawn by the gentle space of Taiyangji Temple.

There is no rigorous training, and the time spent relaxing in the great outdoors will gently heal you from the fatigue of your busy life.

Taiyangji Temple is surrounded by mountains and forests, with no cell phone reception, and is located deep in the mountains 11 kilometers from Mibuguchi Station, the terminus of the Chichibu Railway line.

Walking from the station takes more than 2 hours, but if you stay overnight, a shuttle service from the station is available if you make a reservation in advance.

Butsugokushi (Buddhist Priest)

Butsugokushi was named Koho Kenichi, the second prince of Emperor Gosaga. He was ordained at the age of 16 to survive the turmoil that greeted the period of the Northern and Southern Dynasties.

He became the founder of a temple called Ungan-ji. He later studied under Hojo Sadatoki, regent of the Kamakura shogunate, and his son Takatoki, and served as abbot of Manjuji, Jomyoji, Jochiji, and Kenchoji temples in Kamakura.

From his students grew such outstanding disciples as Soseki Muso, who formed the mainstream of the Zen monastic community in the Kanto region.

At Taiyangji, a disciple said anxiously to Bukkokuji, “Master, even if I wanted to learn Buddhism deep in the mountains like this, I would not be able to find a textbook, would I?

Another disciple pointed out, “If you try to worship Buddha deep in the mountains like this, there is no Buddha to be worshipped.

Then the Buddhist priest quietly replied, “There are no teachers to learn from in this place. He said, “You say there are no teaching books to learn in this place, but is that really true? Listen to the sound of the valley in the distance. You can hear the sound of the valley in the distance and the chirping of birds nearby. Surely there is no written teaching book here, but this voice I hear now, is there any other teaching book as wonderful as this one?”

‘There is no Buddha image to be worshipped.’ That is certainly true. But do we really need a Buddha statue in this place? In front of us are towering mountains that seem to reach to the heavens. There are no Buddha images here that people in the lower realms would cherish, but wouldn’t that allow us to feel that Buddha dwells in the great nature and birds in front of us?”

If Buddhism is so important, you should go to that temple alone. If Buddhism is so important to you, then you should go to that temple alone.

He takes Mother Nature as his teacher and learns from her. This teaching still forms the basis of Taiyo-ji’s Zen meditation.